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Green 18th century Kyoto stays
Green, green days, green green stays!
A pair of stays I made 2022. We moved after I made them so it has taken me a while to photograph them and some other things I made. More coming up!
Since i first saw these stays from the Kyoto costume institutes collection i wanted to give it a try to make them. I loved the swirly pattern going across the front of the stays. Since I am 2 feet tall and a bit bigger than the originals I off course had to adapt them a bit and make them wider. I also skipped the front lacing since I have that on my pink stays and I didnt feel like doing it on these.
Notice that these stays have shoulder straps in one piece! Not super common… As they usually are attatched with a lacing cord in the front to be ablte to adjust. I cant say that Im a superfan. They where adjustable for a reason! Haha! But you gotta try.. Since I have a lot of shoulder pain I actually prefer to have without shoulderstraps or the tape solution like on my pink stays that are super easy to adjust if you are unconfortable.
Materials:
I used 3 layers of linen for these stays. I did not put any extra canvas layers in the front piece as I wanted this pair to be a bit more soft. If you want a more stiff and straight front you need to add several pieces of heavy canvas and you can also use a wooden busk.
-Green 185g linen .
-350g linen canvas.
-280g linen as lining.
-4mm plastic whalebone
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18th century pockets
18th century pocketsI have lost my old embroidered pockets so I decided to make a new pair of some scrap fabric.A simple tutorial:
1. Draw the pockets on a paper, use the stencil to cut 4 pieces of fabric.2. Cut the opening on 2 of the pieces. Use a narrow ribbon to make the edge, I used 12mm cotton ribbon. Sew the ribbon from the outside, turn over and then sew the backside with whipstitch as you do on stays.
3. Pin the fronts together with the backs and sew them together with the ribbon the same way you did before.4. Use a wider ribbon to make the waist band. Pin the pockets to the waistband while you have it on you so you can adjust the placing. Sew the ribbon onto the pockets from the front, turn itover and sew it with whipstiches again all the way to the edges.
And done!
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Making pink 18th century stays- part 1
This winter and a bit of last winter I have been digging more into stays making. I have been making two stays at the same time but I decided to finnish this one first. Pinterest has been a great source to find the right materials and layers and off course the wonderful Patterns of fashion 5!The stays I wanted to make was these 1785-1790 stays from McCord Museumhttp://collections.musee-mccord.qc.ca/en/collection/artifacts/M969X.26?Lang=1&accessnumber=M969X.26
So first the toile! Not a easy task to do on yourself...! And I dont have an easy body type for this shape... My best tip is to not just look in the mirror, ask someoneto take pictures so you can see better where to adjust and if you want; compare to a original pair of stays. It took me alot of tries. After like 4 toiles I was happy. I made a lot of misstakes like to long, to tight over the chest, to short in the front and so on but I have learnt alot!
Now to try with all layers of fabric:Materials I used (layers from the outside):-Pink linen/cotton fabric-Heavy linen canvas-265g linen-creme colored linen lining-4mm plastic boning (fake whalebone)-Cotton ribbonsI made most seams by machine and the edges and embroidery by hand. If you do it all by hand you would sew the seam allowance first on each piece and then sew the pieces together.
First fitting:
First try: Good in the front. Slits to low in the sides and back.
Second try:
Good fit but to long on the sides, need some cutting; a cm or two.
Better! Now I felt ready to make the inside. First I sewed the curved line decorations and then I aded a waistband for strength, boning over the chest held by a cotton tape, and finally 3 layers of linen canvas on the ”beak”.
Next step is herringbone cotton tape over the seams ad a 12mm cotton tape over the edge.
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Stockholm trip part 2- 18th century bal
Bal in Kristienhovs Malmgård. Time to wear my 18th century dress! 😀
Foto: Kristienhovs Malmgård
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Stockholm trip part 1
Here are some pictures from our visit in Livrustkammaren in Stockholm.
And then a visit to Old town! The only part of sthockholm i like! Here is my friend Hans Gunnar from Eikthyrnir (leathercrafts).
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Last fixes before the bal
Testing all the garments together! It works but i still need to fix some stuff; I need to lower the cleavage (hehe you dont get to say that alot), fix the hairline on the wig to a v-shape and make a puffier underskirt.I found some folk costume shoes in real leather on a second hand shop for only 50sek!! Amazing! Not super correct but it will work until i can buy proper shoes (or make some..)
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Danmark 2017
A little trip to Skagen, Denmark! And when abroad: Museuuumsss!
We found the beach just before the rain came! I never seen the danish beach before so this was nice^^
Gå på tur, aldrig sur! As the norwegians say.
Dramatic weather with snow and sun at the same time..
A lovely 19th century cottage.
And theeen: The textiles! Yey!
18th century or early 19th century jacket.
Edwardian summer jacket.
Edwardian mourning jacket.
Mourning outfit.
I´ll take them all thank you..! -
18th century flower a la´anglaise
The beige flower a la´anglaiseThis dress I actually made in high school, but I did the bodice the wrong way so I wanted to make a new one since I had fabric left any way. The fabric is actually a duvet cover that I bought on a secondhand shop for maybe 10-20SEK. Here is the original bodice.
First I want to show you miss duck tape mannequin no 2! Its alot easier to make closely fitted garments if I can see the fit from all angles and I only had my regular mannequins witch do not have the 18th century siluette, so I made a new one while wearing my corset (not very pleasent to be in a corset but also with duck tape on top..)With a mannequin in the right shape you can mark the pieces that you want to make with tape like this, and its very cheap so you can make on for as many periods you like.
Trying out the new bodice
biggest bum roll wins! Hmm, but i do need more underskirts.. -
White 18th century stays
White linen stays done! This is a smaller version of the first stays i made in high school and that one i made from alternating the buttericks pattern B4484. I feel like I should have made them even smaller in the back but they will do for now.
I made the stays in 2 layers of linen and used strong plastic boning. You can find it here in my store.
On the edge i used white cotton tape. I sewed it from the front and folded it over to the back. Seams and lacing holes I sewed with vaxed linen thred. You can find ribbon here, and linen thread here.
I will make a new bump roll soon, this one is from high school… The shift is actually my medieval linen underdress, its the same pattern anyway.
The petticoat I made from the stiffest old sheet we had in the house, antique ones are alot better and stiffer than modern ones. -
Oslo museum trip
After we went to Oslo viking ship museum we went just a few 100m away to te folkemuseum (folk museum). Its a outdoors museum that have alot of buildings from different time periods but its also a indoor museum with clothing and furniture.
Male outfit, early 1800s. wool coat, wool or cotton waistcoat and (probably) chamois leather pants with very pretty embroidery.
18th century shoes, embroidered silk.
Womens undergarments late 19th century.
Fabric press cabinet.
Part of a shirt 1800-1850. Intresting gores on the shoulders!
Loose collar to wear over a deep necklined shift. Very practical when you dont want to wash to much!
I looove this one!! Its a yarn basket. It lookes like viking age but its not! Its says; probably 1500-1700s, from Seljord in Telemark.
Copy of a church chair in Tyldal church in Hedmark, 1150s
This is Gol stave church. It is actually moved here all the way from Gol, wich we passed on the way down from Gudvangen.
