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Green 18th century Kyoto stays
Green, green days, green green stays!
A pair of stays I made 2022. We moved after I made them so it has taken me a while to photograph them and some other things I made. More coming up!
Since i first saw these stays from the Kyoto costume institutes collection i wanted to give it a try to make them. I loved the swirly pattern going across the front of the stays. Since I am 2 feet tall and a bit bigger than the originals I off course had to adapt them a bit and make them wider. I also skipped the front lacing since I have that on my pink stays and I didnt feel like doing it on these.
Notice that these stays have shoulder straps in one piece! Not super common… As they usually are attatched with a lacing cord in the front to be ablte to adjust. I cant say that Im a superfan. They where adjustable for a reason! Haha! But you gotta try.. Since I have a lot of shoulder pain I actually prefer to have without shoulderstraps or the tape solution like on my pink stays that are super easy to adjust if you are unconfortable.
Materials:
I used 3 layers of linen for these stays. I did not put any extra canvas layers in the front piece as I wanted this pair to be a bit more soft. If you want a more stiff and straight front you need to add several pieces of heavy canvas and you can also use a wooden busk.
-Green 185g linen .
-350g linen canvas.
-280g linen as lining.
-4mm plastic whalebone
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18th century pockets
Pink 18th century stays- part 2
Kjolsäck stigsjö ångermanland
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New blogg site
Hello! Im currently moving my blogg to this new site. Some pictures may be a bit blurry, but Im trying to fix this and add all the posts 🙂 So more content is coming!
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Livstycke sorunda
På dräktsömnaden på sätergläntan skulle vi dokumentera och mäta upp ett livstycke vi skulle sy upp. Jag valde ett livstycke från Sorunda, Södermanland.
Privat Ägo.
Datering: 1830-50.
Yttertyg i halvylle, randigt på blå linvarp.
Halvblekt linfoder.
Sydd med blå lintråd, ca 35/2. Foder sytt med halvblekt lintråd, ca 35/2.
Jag gjorde lite ändringar, dels så förstorade jag livet lite till min storlek, och dels så ville jag förlänga skörtet fram för att få ännu mer rokoko-utseende på den, samt att jag satt snörningen på det klassiska sättet istället för att få den mer ålderdomliga diagonalsnörningen. Till yttertyget valde jag ett handvävt tyg som var tillräckligt lika. Har köpt det på auktion och har tyvärr inte än hittat vilken dräkt det tillhör, men därermot väldigt många snarlika.
Till påsk drog jag på mig livstycket för att bli en äkta påskkärring! 😀
I övrigt en tradition som verkar lite utdöende men som jag hoppas får bli kvar. Folk tycker lite olika om traditionen att klä ut sig till häxa, men för mig känns det som ett sätt att minnas och hylla kvinnorna som dog. Liknande scenarion händer världen över och vi bör inte glömma att det inte var så länge sen det hände här. Kvinnokampen fortsätter!
Glad påsk!
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Plantdye with akorns
The ground outside is currently covered in akorns so I couldnt resist trying to plant dye with them. I wasnt sure what color I would get, maybe brown? I collected a bucket of akorns that I thought would last for a week or so but they dont, they mold so I also collected a bucket of new green ones to dye with both and compare.
I did not use any mordant since I didnt have any home yet, and I was very eager to try. Im happy it worked anyway!Small pot- Brown odl akorns + tabby wool
What a result! 😀 I was soo exited to see the fabric in the big pot turn brownish pink and when dry a nice shade of vintage pink. In the picture above from left:
1. Green akorns-Vintage pink on diamond twill
2. Brown old akorns- Light brown on tabby wool
3. Green akorns- Vintage pink (slightly more brown) on tabby wool
Afterwards I got the idea that I also wanted to test on a medium gray fabric so I throwed a piece in for a while more but it only got a bit darker on the brown gray side. Now im eager to try with mordant and experiment with other ingredients! 😀
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Kjolsäck stigsjö ångermanland
Jag upptäckte att Västernorrlands museum hade symönster… Jag som redan hade sytt livstycke efter bilder på digitalmuseum så gott jag kunde, attans! Köpte både, särk, livstycke och kjolmönster. Jag hade redan sytt kjolen med och där hade jag fått över en smal rand av det fina ylletyget som min mormors mamma vävt, vilket var tur för det ingick inte i kjolsäckskittet. Kläde, kantband och tråd ingick i kitet (lite snålt med tråd lägg gärna till mer om ni någon gång ser detta, fick lägga till egen tråd nämligen). Det var skönt att köpa ett kitt och kunna sätta igång lite fortare faktiskt. Annars brukar jag alltid göra egna mönster då jag tkr det är härligt att ha gjort allt själv men det behöver man ju faktiskt inte jämt göra! Nu var det bara att klippa ut bitarna och sätta igång med min kjolsäck till Stigsjödräkten i Ångermanland!
Lite kjolsäckar från Ångermanland:
För att slippa strul och besvär så duttade jag på lite lim på bitarna så dom skulle ligga still. Fritt fram o sy fast!
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Vacation! Dala-floda
I finnaly decided to have my first proper vacation. We wanted to go on a roadtrip up to Jämtland and back so Alex could see the summer lanscape there. Our trip went through Dalarna-Jämtland-Hälsingland. First stop was Dräktboden (the costume shop) in a little village called Dala-floda. They have one of the prettiest folk dress in Sweden I think, with all their embroidered flowers that they started with in the 1800s when chemical dies got common and yarns in all colors where more easy to get hold on. The costume has alot of colors and alot of flowers.At hemslöjden (homecrafts) they have a little shop with second hand dress items, many from the 19th century that has been passed down in generations.
Note the bonnets! A fashion from the first half of the 19th century that for some reason stayed in this region. The outside is covered with cotton tartan and the inside with wool muslin with roses. They also have wool bonnets covered with embroidered flowers and different types of tartan head scarfs for different occasions of the year.
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Livstycke stigsjö
Jag ville göra ett nytt livstycke till min stigsjödräkt, nämligen såsom orginalet såg ut. Orginalet finns på nordiska museet och är från ca 1780-1799. Den är gjord i röd kamlott men eftersom det inte direkt går att få tag i nu för tiden så valde jag att göra den i röd kläde, dvs ylletyg i tuskaft. Till foder har jag använt linnetyg på 280g.
1780 — 1799
Kamlott var modernt i folkligt dräktskick
under andra hälften av 1700-talet och speciellt till högtidsdräkt
eftersom det var ett köpetyg. Ofta bars det i t.ex. ungmorsdräkten.
-skriver Berit EldvikTill den officiella stigsjödräkten valde man att göra livstycket i grönt tyg med röda passpoaler trots att orginalet var rött. Det gröna livstyckes valde man att använda till flera av de ångermanländska dräkterna. Dessa dräkterna dyker upp lite då och då på begagnatsidor så vill du ha en egen och inte beställa nytt så går det att få tag i.
Orginalet finns att se på digitalmuseum
https://digitaltmuseum.se/011023309406/livstycke
Lite andra dräktdelar från Ångermanland:
http://www.folkdrakt.se/bild/angermanland/dam.htm
Orginallivstycket från Nordiska museet -
18th century pockets
18th century pocketsI have lost my old embroidered pockets so I decided to make a new pair of some scrap fabric.A simple tutorial:
1. Draw the pockets on a paper, use the stencil to cut 4 pieces of fabric.2. Cut the opening on 2 of the pieces. Use a narrow ribbon to make the edge, I used 12mm cotton ribbon. Sew the ribbon from the outside, turn over and then sew the backside with whipstitch as you do on stays.
3. Pin the fronts together with the backs and sew them together with the ribbon the same way you did before.4. Use a wider ribbon to make the waist band. Pin the pockets to the waistband while you have it on you so you can adjust the placing. Sew the ribbon onto the pockets from the front, turn itover and sew it with whipstiches again all the way to the edges.
And done!
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Pink 18th century stays- part 2
How to make pink stays- part 2
A ducktape dressform is great to make small changes! It is not as good as your self as you have bones to work around but its better than having to lace up every time! 🙂And here are the final stays!!
I just realized I never did the shoulder straps haha! I will add those later then..
Edit: I have released the pattern as the Freya stays, both on paper and digital. you can find it here:
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Making pink 18th century stays- part 1
This winter and a bit of last winter I have been digging more into stays making. I have been making two stays at the same time but I decided to finnish this one first. Pinterest has been a great source to find the right materials and layers and off course the wonderful Patterns of fashion 5!The stays I wanted to make was these 1785-1790 stays from McCord Museumhttp://collections.musee-mccord.qc.ca/en/collection/artifacts/M969X.26?Lang=1&accessnumber=M969X.26
So first the toile! Not a easy task to do on yourself...! And I dont have an easy body type for this shape... My best tip is to not just look in the mirror, ask someoneto take pictures so you can see better where to adjust and if you want; compare to a original pair of stays. It took me alot of tries. After like 4 toiles I was happy. I made a lot of misstakes like to long, to tight over the chest, to short in the front and so on but I have learnt alot!
Now to try with all layers of fabric:Materials I used (layers from the outside):-Pink linen/cotton fabric-Heavy linen canvas-265g linen-creme colored linen lining-4mm plastic boning (fake whalebone)-Cotton ribbonsI made most seams by machine and the edges and embroidery by hand. If you do it all by hand you would sew the seam allowance first on each piece and then sew the pieces together.
First fitting:
First try: Good in the front. Slits to low in the sides and back.
Second try:
Good fit but to long on the sides, need some cutting; a cm or two.
Better! Now I felt ready to make the inside. First I sewed the curved line decorations and then I aded a waistband for strength, boning over the chest held by a cotton tape, and finally 3 layers of linen canvas on the ”beak”.
Next step is herringbone cotton tape over the seams ad a 12mm cotton tape over the edge.
