• Folk costume,  Uncategorized

    Livstycke sorunda

    På dräktsömnaden på sätergläntan skulle vi dokumentera och mäta upp ett livstycke vi skulle sy upp. Jag valde ett livstycke från Sorunda, Södermanland.

    Privat Ägo.

    Datering: 1830-50.

    Yttertyg i halvylle, randigt på blå linvarp.

    Halvblekt linfoder.

    Sydd med blå lintråd, ca 35/2. Foder sytt med halvblekt lintråd, ca 35/2.

    Jag gjorde lite ändringar, dels så förstorade jag livet lite till min storlek, och dels så ville jag förlänga skörtet fram för att få ännu mer rokoko-utseende på den, samt att jag satt snörningen på det klassiska sättet istället för att få den mer ålderdomliga diagonalsnörningen. Till yttertyget valde jag ett handvävt tyg som var tillräckligt lika. Har köpt det på auktion och har tyvärr inte än hittat vilken dräkt det tillhör, men därermot väldigt många snarlika.

    Till påsk drog jag på mig livstycket för att bli en äkta påskkärring! 😀

    I övrigt en tradition som verkar lite utdöende men som jag hoppas får bli kvar. Folk tycker lite olika om traditionen att klä ut sig till häxa, men för mig känns det som ett sätt att minnas och hylla kvinnorna som dog. Liknande scenarion händer världen över och vi bör inte glömma att det inte var så länge sen det hände här. Kvinnokampen fortsätter!

    Glad påsk!

  • Plant dye,  Uncategorized

    Plantdye with akorns

    The ground outside is currently covered in akorns so I couldnt resist trying to plant dye with them. I wasnt sure what color I would get, maybe brown? I collected a bucket of akorns that I thought would last for a week or so but they dont, they mold so I also collected a bucket of new green ones to dye with both and compare.

     

     
    I did not use any mordant since I didnt have any home yet, and I was very eager to try. Im happy it worked anyway!
    Big pot- Green akorns+ white diamond twill and tabby wool
    Small pot- Brown odl akorns + tabby wool
     
    Akorn dyed fabrics

    What a result! 😀 I was soo exited to see the fabric in the big pot turn brownish pink and when dry a nice shade of vintage pink. In the picture above from left: 

    1. Green akorns-Vintage pink on diamond twill

    2. Brown old akorns- Light brown on tabby wool

    3. Green akorns- Vintage pink (slightly more brown) on tabby wool

    Akorn dyed fabric samples
    Plant dye with akorns
    Akorn dye result

     Afterwards I got the idea that I also wanted to test on a medium gray fabric so I throwed a piece in for a while more but it only got a bit darker on the brown gray side. Now im eager to try with mordant and experiment with other ingredients! 😀

  • Folk costume,  Uncategorized

    Kjolsäck stigsjö ångermanland

    Jag upptäckte att Västernorrlands museum hade symönster… Jag som redan hade sytt livstycke efter bilder på digitalmuseum så gott jag kunde, attans! Köpte både, särk, livstycke och kjolmönster. Jag hade redan sytt kjolen med och där hade jag fått över en smal rand av det fina ylletyget som min mormors mamma vävt, vilket var tur för det ingick inte i kjolsäckskittet. Kläde, kantband och tråd ingick i kitet (lite snålt med tråd lägg gärna till mer om ni någon gång ser detta, fick lägga till egen tråd nämligen). Det var skönt att köpa ett kitt och kunna sätta igång lite fortare faktiskt. Annars brukar jag alltid göra egna mönster då jag tkr det är härligt att ha gjort allt själv men det behöver man ju faktiskt inte jämt göra! Nu var det bara att klippa ut bitarna och sätta igång med min kjolsäck till Stigsjödräkten i Ångermanland!

    Lite kjolsäckar från Ångermanland:

    För att slippa strul och besvär så duttade jag på lite lim på bitarna så dom skulle ligga still. Fritt fram o sy fast!

  • Uncategorized

    Vacation! Dala-floda

    I finnaly decided to have my first proper vacation. We wanted to go on a roadtrip up to Jämtland and back so Alex could see the summer lanscape there. Our trip went through Dalarna-Jämtland-Hälsingland. First stop was Dräktboden (the costume shop) in a little village called Dala-floda. They have one of the prettiest folk dress in Sweden I think, with all their embroidered flowers that they started with in the 1800s when chemical dies got common and yarns in all colors where more easy to get hold on. The costume has alot of colors and alot of flowers.
    At hemslöjden (homecrafts) they have a little shop with second hand dress items, many from the 19th century that has been passed down in generations.
     
     
     
     
    dräktboden-i-Dala-floda
    kråka-dalafloda

    Note the bonnets! A fashion from the first half of the 19th century that for some reason stayed in this region. The outside is covered with cotton tartan and the inside with wool muslin with roses. They also have wool bonnets covered with embroidered flowers and different types of tartan head scarfs for different occasions of the year.

    dala-floda-tröjor
    folkdräkt-dalafloda
  • Folk costume

    Livstycke stigsjö


    Jag ville göra ett nytt livstycke till min stigsjödräkt, nämligen såsom orginalet såg ut. Orginalet finns på nordiska museet och är från ca 1780-1799. Den är gjord i röd kamlott men eftersom det inte direkt går att få tag i nu för tiden så valde jag att göra den i röd kläde, dvs ylletyg i tuskaft. Till foder har jag använt linnetyg på 280g.

    1780 — 1799


    Kamlott var modernt i folkligt dräktskick
    under andra hälften av 1700-talet och speciellt till högtidsdräkt
    eftersom det var ett köpetyg. Ofta bars det i t.ex. ungmorsdräkten.
    -skriver Berit Eldvik

    Till den officiella stigsjödräkten valde man att göra livstycket i grönt tyg med röda passpoaler trots att orginalet var rött. Det gröna livstyckes valde man att använda till flera av de ångermanländska dräkterna. Dessa dräkterna dyker upp lite då och då på begagnatsidor så vill du ha en egen och inte beställa nytt så går det att få tag i.


    Orginalet finns att se på digitalmuseum

    https://digitaltmuseum.se/011023309406/livstycke


    Lite andra dräktdelar från Ångermanland:

    http://www.folkdrakt.se/bild/angermanland/dam.htm

    Orginallivstycket från Nordiska museet
  • 18th century,  Uncategorized

    18th century pockets

    18th century pockets
    I have lost my old embroidered pockets so I decided to make a new pair of some scrap fabric.
    A simple tutorial:
     
    18th century pockets
    1. Draw the pockets on a paper, use the stencil to cut 4 pieces of fabric.
    2. Cut the opening on 2 of the pieces. Use a narrow ribbon to make the edge, I used 12mm cotton ribbon. Sew the ribbon from the outside, turn over and then sew the backside with whipstitch as you do on stays.
     
    striped 18th century pockets
    striped 18th century pockets
    3. Pin the fronts together with the backs and sew them together with the ribbon the same way you did before.
    4. Use a wider ribbon to make the waist band. Pin the pockets to the waistband while you have it on you so you can adjust the placing. Sew the ribbon onto the pockets from the front, turn itover and sew it with whipstiches again all the way to the edges.
     
     
    And done!
     
    18th century pockets
     
    18th century pockets
     
  • 18th century,  18th century stays,  Uncategorized

    Pink 18th century stays- part 2

    How to make pink stays- part 2
     
    pink stays
    A ducktape dressform is great to make small changes! It is not as good as your self as you have bones to work around but its better than having to lace up every time! 🙂
     
     
    And here are the final stays!!
    pink 18th century stays
    pink stays
    I just realized I never did the shoulder straps haha! I will add those later then..
    pink 18th century stayspink 18th century stays
     
    pink 18th century stays back
     
    pink stays lacing
    pink 18th century stays
     
     
     
     

    Edit: I have released the pattern as the Freya stays, both on paper and digital. you can find it here:

    www.thehistoricalfabricstore.com/sewingpatterns

  • 18th century,  18th century stays

    Making pink 18th century stays- part 1

     
    pink stayspink stays
     
    This winter and a bit of last winter I have been digging more into stays making. I have been making two stays at the same time but I decided to finnish this one first. Pinterest has been a great source to find the right materials and layers and off course the wonderful Patterns of fashion 5! 
    The stays I wanted to make was these 1785-1790 stays from McCord Museum

    http://collections.musee-mccord.qc.ca/en/collection/artifacts/M969X.26?Lang=1&accessnumber=M969X.26

     
     
    Patterns of fashion 5
     
    
    So first the toile! Not a easy task to do on yourself...! And I dont have an easy body type for this shape... 
    My best tip is to not just look in the mirror, ask someoneto take pictures so you can see better where to 
    adjust and if you want; compare to a original pair of stays. It took me alot of tries. After like 4 toiles I 
    was happy. I made a lot of misstakes like to long, to tight over the chest, to short in the front and so on
     but I have learnt alot!
    
    Trying on stays front
     

    pink 18th century stays sidepink 18th century stays back

     
    Now to try with all layers of fabric:
     
     
     
    Materials I used (layers from the outside):
     
    -Pink linen/cotton fabric
    -Heavy linen canvas
    -265g linen
    -creme colored linen lining
     
    -4mm plastic boning (fake whalebone)
    -Cotton ribbons
    White and natural linen thread
    I made most seams by machine and the edges and embroidery by hand. If you do it all by hand you would sew the seam allowance first on each piece and then sew the pieces together.
    stays pattern
    stays pattern
    outside of the stays
    inside of stays
    stays boning
    
    
    stays boning
    boned stays
    
    
    
    
    
    stays lacing holes
    First fitting:
    
    
     
    First try: Good in the front. Slits to low in the sides and back.
     
     
    Second try:

    Good fit but to long on the sides, need some cutting; a cm or two.

     

    18th century stays lacing
     
    Better! Now I felt ready to make the inside. First I sewed the curved line decorations and then I aded a waistband for strength, boning over the chest held by a cotton tape, and finally 3 layers of linen canvas on the ”beak”.
    inside of stays
    edge ribbon stays
    Next step is herringbone cotton tape over the seams ad a 12mm cotton tape over the edge.
    
    edge cotton ribbon stays
     
     
    stays lining
    finnished stays
     
  • 15th century

    Blue 15th century dress

    Foto by Pernilla Björnsdotter edited by me.
    Here is a new dress that I made this winter! Im very exited about it since I
    have wanted to do it for many years but alot of stuff got in the way… I love
    the lacing on these gowns, it seem to have been very popular for a while since
    there is so many pictures with ladies wearing this type of dress in different
    colors. This dress is also german from late 15th century (yes… I know but I
    like it!), mostly around 1470s. The ladies in this pictures dont have any
    veils on just various braids that cross on top of the forhead. I cant get that
    to look good with my wig so Im wearing a late 15th century turban instead. I
    also made mine without a long skirt trail since Im working in the dress. Not
    correct but its to much in the way for a working girl. I did my yellow dress
    long first but had to cut it so I learnt from my mistake. If you only visit a
    market or other event then defenetly go for the long skirt! 🙂
    Note the guys curly hair! They must have been doing alot of curling up on
    fabric scraps haha!
    Some of the girls have ”underskirts” of some kind. I wonder if they have a
    underdress or if its the painters addition. It might be a tight lacing
    underdress but I have only seen the linen ones yet so I have to search more.
    It is always hard to research under layers of clothing.
    Love his jacket btw!
    Dont know whats happening in this picture…but look at that brocade mrr!
    Foto by Pernilla Björnsdotter edited by me.
    Foto by Pernilla Björnsdotter edited by me.
    The pattern

    I made this dress aswell as the yellow dress with the typical plate arms that is common in this time period. They are super tricky to make and to make it even harder I made a new version since the arm has a higher slit than my yellow dress, so had to make a new pattern. Since I was in a hurry for a market as usuall I didnt have to much time to perfect the back (soo hard to do that on your self umg..!) but it will do. If I would remake it I would give it a bit more range of movement over the shoulder/arms. On to the patern: Exept for the mog boy dress there are fragments from Lengberg castle that was found not to long ago. In the picture below are pieces of lining from this kind of dress (yey!) These finding are so great since they let us know more about the construction. I like the gore solution in the back and will defenetly try this on the next one, I did a straight top since I have seen that on many pictures aswell (see picture after this one). There is probably many ways to do it.

    From publication by Beatrix Nutz


    This is how I made my back.

    My pattern pieces basicly look like Queen Margareta of sweden´s dress but with the plate arm back thingy and I aded gores on the sides. I made the pieces in extra wide A-shapes for the pleating in the front.
    I couldnt stand the tought of putting linen lining in it (cold/heat sensative) so I decided to skip lining and do a solution like this, with linen to cover the pleats and then I made a linen ”waist ribbon” that I could sew the front pleats onto. Ps: I didnt have any blue linen thread so I just took regular instead.

    Lining in the arms to suport the lacing wholes.

    Foto by Pernilla Björnsdotter edited by me.
    Foto by Pernilla Björnsdotter edited by me.
    Here you can see the front pleats better. I sewed them into my hidden waist ribbon, to keep them in pleace.
    Foto by Pernilla Björnsdotter edited by me.
    Foto by Pernilla Björnsdotter edited by me.