• 18th century stays,  18th century,  Uncategorized

    Green 18th century Kyoto stays

    Green, green days, green green stays!

    A pair of stays I made 2022. We moved after I made them so it has taken me a while to photograph them and some other things I made. More coming up!

    Since i first saw these stays from the Kyoto costume institutes collection i wanted to give it a try to make them. I loved the swirly pattern going across the front of the stays. Since I am 2 feet tall and a bit bigger than the originals I off course had to adapt them a bit and make them wider. I also skipped the front lacing since I have that on my pink stays and I didnt feel like doing it on these.

    Notice that these stays have shoulder straps in one piece! Not super common… As they usually are attatched with a lacing cord in the front to be ablte to adjust. I cant say that Im a superfan.  They where adjustable for a reason! Haha! But you gotta try.. Since I have a lot of shoulder pain I actually prefer to have without shoulderstraps or the tape solution like on my pink stays that are super easy to adjust if you are unconfortable.

    Green kyoto stays
    Lacing stays


    I used 3 layers of linen for these stays. I did not put any extra canvas layers in the front piece as I wanted this pair to be a bit more soft. If you want a more stiff and straight front you need to add several pieces of heavy canvas and you can also use a wooden busk.

    -Green 185g linen .

    -350g linen canvas.

    -280g linen as lining.

    -4mm plastic whalebone

  • Folk costume,  Uncategorized

    Livstycke sorunda

    På dräktsömnaden på sätergläntan skulle vi dokumentera och mäta upp ett livstycke vi skulle sy upp. Jag valde ett livstycke från Sorunda, Södermanland.

    Privat Ägo.

    Datering: 1830-50.

    Yttertyg i halvylle, randigt på blå linvarp.

    Halvblekt linfoder.

    Sydd med blå lintråd, ca 35/2. Foder sytt med halvblekt lintråd, ca 35/2.

    Jag gjorde lite ändringar, dels så förstorade jag livet lite till min storlek, och dels så ville jag förlänga skörtet fram för att få ännu mer rokoko-utseende på den, samt att jag satt snörningen på det klassiska sättet istället för att få den mer ålderdomliga diagonalsnörningen. Till yttertyget valde jag ett handvävt tyg som var tillräckligt lika. Har köpt det på auktion och har tyvärr inte än hittat vilken dräkt det tillhör, men därermot väldigt många snarlika.

    Till påsk drog jag på mig livstycket för att bli en äkta påskkärring! 😀

    I övrigt en tradition som verkar lite utdöende men som jag hoppas får bli kvar. Folk tycker lite olika om traditionen att klä ut sig till häxa, men för mig känns det som ett sätt att minnas och hylla kvinnorna som dog. Liknande scenarion händer världen över och vi bör inte glömma att det inte var så länge sen det hände här. Kvinnokampen fortsätter!

    Glad påsk!

  • Plant dye,  Uncategorized

    Plantdye with akorns

    The ground outside is currently covered in akorns so I couldnt resist trying to plant dye with them. I wasnt sure what color I would get, maybe brown? I collected a bucket of akorns that I thought would last for a week or so but they dont, they mold so I also collected a bucket of new green ones to dye with both and compare.


    I did not use any mordant since I didnt have any home yet, and I was very eager to try. Im happy it worked anyway!
    Big pot- Green akorns+ white diamond twill and tabby wool
    Small pot- Brown odl akorns + tabby wool
    Akorn dyed fabrics

    What a result! 😀 I was soo exited to see the fabric in the big pot turn brownish pink and when dry a nice shade of vintage pink. In the picture above from left: 

    1. Green akorns-Vintage pink on diamond twill

    2. Brown old akorns- Light brown on tabby wool

    3. Green akorns- Vintage pink (slightly more brown) on tabby wool

    Akorn dyed fabric samples
    Plant dye with akorns
    Akorn dye result

     Afterwards I got the idea that I also wanted to test on a medium gray fabric so I throwed a piece in for a while more but it only got a bit darker on the brown gray side. Now im eager to try with mordant and experiment with other ingredients! 😀

  • Folk costume,  Uncategorized

    Kjolsäck stigsjö ångermanland

    Jag upptäckte att Västernorrlands museum hade symönster… Jag som redan hade sytt livstycke efter bilder på digitalmuseum så gott jag kunde, attans! Köpte både, särk, livstycke och kjolmönster. Jag hade redan sytt kjolen med och där hade jag fått över en smal rand av det fina ylletyget som min mormors mamma vävt, vilket var tur för det ingick inte i kjolsäckskittet. Kläde, kantband och tråd ingick i kitet (lite snålt med tråd lägg gärna till mer om ni någon gång ser detta, fick lägga till egen tråd nämligen). Det var skönt att köpa ett kitt och kunna sätta igång lite fortare faktiskt. Annars brukar jag alltid göra egna mönster då jag tkr det är härligt att ha gjort allt själv men det behöver man ju faktiskt inte jämt göra! Nu var det bara att klippa ut bitarna och sätta igång med min kjolsäck till Stigsjödräkten i Ångermanland!

    Lite kjolsäckar från Ångermanland:

    För att slippa strul och besvär så duttade jag på lite lim på bitarna så dom skulle ligga still. Fritt fram o sy fast!

  • Uncategorized

    Vacation! Dala-floda

    I finnaly decided to have my first proper vacation. We wanted to go on a roadtrip up to Jämtland and back so Alex could see the summer lanscape there. Our trip went through Dalarna-Jämtland-Hälsingland. First stop was Dräktboden (the costume shop) in a little village called Dala-floda. They have one of the prettiest folk dress in Sweden I think, with all their embroidered flowers that they started with in the 1800s when chemical dies got common and yarns in all colors where more easy to get hold on. The costume has alot of colors and alot of flowers.
    At hemslöjden (homecrafts) they have a little shop with second hand dress items, many from the 19th century that has been passed down in generations.

    Note the bonnets! A fashion from the first half of the 19th century that for some reason stayed in this region. The outside is covered with cotton tartan and the inside with wool muslin with roses. They also have wool bonnets covered with embroidered flowers and different types of tartan head scarfs for different occasions of the year.

  • 18th century,  Uncategorized

    18th century pockets

    18th century pockets
    I have lost my old embroidered pockets so I decided to make a new pair of some scrap fabric.
    A simple tutorial:
    18th century pockets
    1. Draw the pockets on a paper, use the stencil to cut 4 pieces of fabric.
    2. Cut the opening on 2 of the pieces. Use a narrow ribbon to make the edge, I used 12mm cotton ribbon. Sew the ribbon from the outside, turn over and then sew the backside with whipstitch as you do on stays.
    striped 18th century pockets
    striped 18th century pockets
    3. Pin the fronts together with the backs and sew them together with the ribbon the same way you did before.
    4. Use a wider ribbon to make the waist band. Pin the pockets to the waistband while you have it on you so you can adjust the placing. Sew the ribbon onto the pockets from the front, turn itover and sew it with whipstiches again all the way to the edges.
    And done!
    18th century pockets
    18th century pockets
  • 18th century,  18th century stays,  Uncategorized

    Pink 18th century stays- part 2

    How to make pink stays- part 2
    pink stays
    A ducktape dressform is great to make small changes! It is not as good as your self as you have bones to work around but its better than having to lace up every time! 🙂
    And here are the final stays!!
    pink 18th century stays
    pink stays
    I just realized I never did the shoulder straps haha! I will add those later then..
    pink 18th century stayspink 18th century stays
    pink 18th century stays back
    pink stays lacing
    pink 18th century stays

    Edit: I have released the pattern as the Freya stays, both on paper and digital. you can find it here:


  • 15th century,  15th century underwear,  Uncategorized

    Lengberg inspired undergarments

    I wanted medieval underwear but was not ready for the 15th century apple tits just yet. I know its a part of the 15th century siluette but i promise i´ll try it later! So i did a lengberg inspired bra instead. The acheologist think that the Lengberg bra was actually a underdress, and I belive so to. There is a lot of pictures from the 15th century with women in fitted underdresses that have loose skirt part from the waist down.
    I wanted to have a bra that I can have under all my viking and medieval garments just so I can skip the modern bra. So this bra didnt need to be historical acurate since its not going to show other than in the siluette maybe. And i can also use this one as a bikini! Linen is actually great for bikinis since it dryes so quick!
    To make it easy to get in it I made hooks on one side and lacing on the other side to pull it tight.
    Jag ville ha medeltida underkläder men kände mig inte riktigt redo för sena 1400-talets äppeltuttar riktigt än. Dom är ju en del av 1400-tals siluetten men jag lovar att gör en ordentlig senare! XD
    Så istället gjorde jag en Lengberg-inspirerad bh. Arkeologerna har kommit fram till att Lengbergbh:n igentligen är en del av en underklänning, vilket jag med tror då  det finns många bilder med kvinnor i formade underklänningar från den hör perioden som har en kjoldel från midjan och ned.
    Jag ville ha en bh som jag kan ha under både vikinga- och medeltida kläder för att kunna skippa modern bh som kanske syns ibland. Så den här bh:n behövde inte vara helt hk då den ändå inte ska synas. Jag kan även använda den som en bikini! Linne är ju superbra material för badkläder då det torkar så fort!
    För att enkelt komma i och ur den så har den fått hyskar o hakar i ena sidan och en snörning i andra för att kunna dra åt.
    Here you can see who women in panties. If somebody wknows what the lady to the left is doing please tell me! Why hold a woolstick and pull down your panties next to the dude to the right? Or is this only used for menstruation?
  • 15th century,  15th century headwear,  Medieval headwear,  Uncategorized


    Whats wrong with my head? you might wonder. Nothing at all! Its just a very fashionable headwear from 1490-1500. This period is all about big headwear for women with is perfect since I wear wig!
    Vad är det för fel på mitt huvud? kanske du undrar. Ingenting alls! Har bara på mig en mkt fashionabel huvudbonad från 1490 ish. I den här perioden är det stora huvudbonader som gäller vilken passar perfekt då ja har peruk!

    I made a roll in linen fabric, stuffed with cotton (wool would be more period but i just had a lot of cotton). I fastened it with safetypins for now but i will sew it on a cap or something later
    Jag gjorde en lös rulle i linne, fylld med bomull (ull vore mer hk men jag hade mkt bomull). Satt fast den med säkerhetsnålar nu men ska sy fast den på nån hätta senare.