• 18th century,  18th century stays,  Uncategorized

    Pink 18th century stays- part 2

    How to make pink stays- part 2
     
    pink stays
    A ducktape dressform is great to make small changes! It is not as good as your self as you have bones to work around but its better than having to lace up every time! 🙂
     
     
    And here are the final stays!!
    pink 18th century stays
    pink stays
    I just realized I never did the shoulder straps haha! I will add those later then..
    pink 18th century stayspink 18th century stays
     
    pink 18th century stays back
     
    pink stays lacing
    pink 18th century stays
     
     
     
     

    Edit: I have released the pattern as the Freya stays, both on paper and digital. you can find it here:

    www.thehistoricalfabricstore.com/sewingpatterns

  • 18th century,  18th century stays

    Making pink 18th century stays- part 1

     
    pink stayspink stays
     
    This winter and a bit of last winter I have been digging more into stays making. I have been making two stays at the same time but I decided to finnish this one first. Pinterest has been a great source to find the right materials and layers and off course the wonderful Patterns of fashion 5! 
    The stays I wanted to make was these 1785-1790 stays from McCord Museum

    http://collections.musee-mccord.qc.ca/en/collection/artifacts/M969X.26?Lang=1&accessnumber=M969X.26

     
     
    Patterns of fashion 5
     
    
    So first the toile! Not a easy task to do on yourself...! And I dont have an easy body type for this shape... 
    My best tip is to not just look in the mirror, ask someoneto take pictures so you can see better where to 
    adjust and if you want; compare to a original pair of stays. It took me alot of tries. After like 4 toiles I 
    was happy. I made a lot of misstakes like to long, to tight over the chest, to short in the front and so on
     but I have learnt alot!
    
    Trying on stays front
     

    pink 18th century stays sidepink 18th century stays back

     
    Now to try with all layers of fabric:
     
     
     
    Materials I used (layers from the outside):
     
    -Pink linen/cotton fabric
    -Heavy linen canvas
    -265g linen
    -creme colored linen lining
     
    -4mm plastic boning (fake whalebone)
    -Cotton ribbons
    White and natural linen thread
    I made most seams by machine and the edges and embroidery by hand. If you do it all by hand you would sew the seam allowance first on each piece and then sew the pieces together.
    stays pattern
    stays pattern
    outside of the stays
    inside of stays
    stays boning
    
    
    stays boning
    boned stays
    
    
    
    
    
    stays lacing holes
    First fitting:
    
    
     
    First try: Good in the front. Slits to low in the sides and back.
     
     
    Second try:

    Good fit but to long on the sides, need some cutting; a cm or two.

     

    18th century stays lacing
     
    Better! Now I felt ready to make the inside. First I sewed the curved line decorations and then I aded a waistband for strength, boning over the chest held by a cotton tape, and finally 3 layers of linen canvas on the ”beak”.
    inside of stays
    edge ribbon stays
    Next step is herringbone cotton tape over the seams ad a 12mm cotton tape over the edge.
    
    edge cotton ribbon stays
     
     
    stays lining
    finnished stays